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INSIDE AFRICA

Current Events on the Africa Continent

Aired August 28, 2004 - 12:30:00   ET

THIS IS A RUSH TRANSCRIPT. THIS COPY MAY NOT BE IN ITS FINAL FORM AND MAY BE UPDATED.


TUMI MAKGABO, CNN ANCHOR: After travels with African Union military advisors in Darfur, a British journalist's first-hand account with atrocity amidst a fragile ceasefire, but who are the Darfur rebels? We go back in time to trace the tensions between Sudanese, Arabs and black Africans.
Healing rhythms. We'll take you to (UNINTELLIGIBLE) in Southern Morocco to see how the Gnawa people are using music to heal the sick. Plus we'll tell you why Kenyans are laying claim to this American politician.

These stories and more coming up on this edition of INSIDE AFRICA.

Hello and good to have you join us. I'm Tumi Makgabo.

The crisis in Sudan's Darfur region continues to dominate the news. There are efforts on many fronts to end that conflict. A United Nations fact finding team has been touring Darfur this week, assessing the humanitarian situation there while in Abuja, Nigeria the rebels and the government are negotiating.

In the midst of it all, not much is heard from the rebels, the men who started the war. Who are they and why did they launch the rebellion in the first place?

(BEGIN VIDEOTAPE)

(voice-over): A rebel training session in the town of (UNINTELLIGIBLE) near Sudan's border with Chad. Rebel commander (UNINTELLIGIBLE) tells his young fighters to hope for the success of the peace talks in Abuja, Nigeria. But that is difficult here, where mistrust of the Khartoum government runs high.

Many of the young fighters believe that the government wants to drive them off their land, and so they continue to prepare for war in one of several makeshift camps in Darfur.

Mistrust between Arabs and Africans in this region dates back decades. Unease grew in the mid `70s when the mostly nomadic Arab (UNINTELLIGIBLE) began searching for viable grazing land in the midst of a drought, and the more settled Africans saw this as an attempt by the Arabs to take over their land.

In the years that followed, the different ethnic groups squabbled over land rights and human rights groups say tensions increased in the `90s as scores of well-known figures from the region were repeatedly arrested and detained without trial. Among them, a young lawyer named Abdel Wahed Mohamed Ahmed Al Nur, who in 2003 led the Sudan Liberation Army, the SLA, in an armed rebellion against the Khartoum government.

Abdel Wahed is this week leading the SLA in peace negotiations with the government in Nigeria. So far it seems that negotiations are not making headway on a key issue. That is disarmament. Both the SLA and the other rebel group, the Justice and Equality Movement, the JEM, are refusing to disarm. The groups say giving up their weapons will make the civilian black African population even more vulnerable to attacks from the pro- government Janjaweed militias.

The Janjaweed and government soldiers have been accused of committing atrocities against black Africans and the government accuses rebels of attacking relief convoys and carrying out reprisal attacks against Arabs.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yesterday the rebels attacked a group of humanitarians (UNINTELLIGIBLE) refugee center (UNINTELLIGIBLE).

MAKGABO: The SLA's Abdel Wahed dismisses those allegations.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: (UNINTELLIGIBLE) international community to send neutral people to investigate what is happening.

MAKGABO: There's no question that the people of Darfur are suffering with about 50,000 killed and nearly a million displaced. There are many horrifying stories told by refugees. Many rights groups blame the pro- government Janjaweed militias. But even as they battle the Janjaweed, some of the young rebel soldiers seem tired and are hoping for a quick end to the conflict.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE (through translator): I want peace so much. I just want to live like a normal human being.

MAKGABO: A United Nations team just ended a trip to Darfur and reports an improvement in the humanitarian situation, but achieving peace may not be that easy. Though mediators at the African Union talks in Abuja seem determined to end the nightmare and return hope to the thousands of refugees in these camps.

(END VIDEOTAPE)

The African Union has a small team in Darfur, there to monitor fragile ceasefire that was reached in April of this year. But their work is becoming more and more difficult as they find it almost impossible to distinguish between government soldiers and the Janjaweed militias.

Journalist Lindsey Hilsum, who recently went on patrol with the monitors, has more on why.

(BEGIN VIDEOTAPE)

LINDSEY HILSUM, ITV CORRESPONDENT (voice-over): Much complaining as yet another heavy bag is loaded. Here in the market of (UNINTELLIGIBLE), a town with a reputation as the Janjaweed capital of Darfur.

Who is the man loading the camel? Is he a Janjaweed militiaman or a soldier? The close relationship between the men with guns and the Arab nomads is there for all to see.

Monitors from the African Union say a month ago the market (UNINTELLIGIBLE) with men in civilian clothes wearing weapons. Now they're just soldiers and men who look like soldiers.

Can this man be telling the truth, that at his age he joined the army just two years ago. The monitors suspect that he instead is a Janjaweed, now integrated into the Sudanese government armed forces.

They're at the market too, collecting supplies to take to their bases around (UNINTELLIGIBLE). Other sources tell me the bases are shared. Janjaweed and soldiers together.

We arrive by African Union helicopter. Hundreds were at the airfield as we landed. Forced from their homes by war, they're staying with relatives in town. There are no camps for displaced people here and the population of (UNINTELLIGIBLE) has tripled.

Off on patrol. 16 military observers from all over Africa (UNINTELLIGIBLE) are in (UNINTELLIGIBLE) to report violations of the ceasefire between the government and the two rebel groups in Darfur. It's a tall order. Their few vehicles don't even have radio communication. But that doesn't stop them from seeing what's going on.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: There is a high incidence of rapes and attacks of women in particular, who go to collect firewood and (UNINTELLIGIBLE), particularly the (UNINTELLIGIBLE) displaced people. They are really affected.

HILSUM: The monitors are unarmed. All they can do is report the rapes as a ceasefire violation. They don't stop. It adds to the pressure on the Sudanese government.

(on camera): The ceasefire between the rebels and the government does seem to be holding. The Army is no longer dropping rockets like these. But it's very difficult for the African Union monitors to workout exactly who is who.

The United Nations has demanded that the government disarm and disband the Janjaweed militia, but the evidence we've seen suggests that far from that, the Janjaweed is just putting on military uniforms and becoming increasingly integrated into the army.

(voice-over): We stopped a nomadic encampment. The war in Darfur has inflamed conflict between nomads and settled farmers over land and water. The rebels were fighting for the farmers. The government recruited Arab nomads as militia or Janjaweed.

A young man in uniform came out of the camp to greet us, said he was a government soldier paid the equivalent of 5 pounds a month. But when asked the name of his unit he said (UNINTELLIGIBLE), the Quick and the Terrible. That's a notorious Janjaweed group led by Sheikh Mussah Hillal (ph), the man believed to be the Janjaweed leader.

He rejected the term Janjaweed, saying they were simply part of the defense forces, but confirmed Hillal (ph) was his commander. It's more evidence for the monitors.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Where is their uniform? That gives us an indication that they are under a particular rebel command for which we can deal with the commander (UNINTELLIGIBLE) but if they are civilians, it gives us an indication they might belong to a militia, because the militia is also put in this area. And that is very difficult to control. So for now we see that the government is sort of controlling these people, because this (UNINTELLIGIBLE) have disappeared (UNINTELLIGIBLE) and we see more men in uniform.

HILSUM: (UNINTELLIGIBLE) at the border with Chad there is no one rushing to greet the helicopter. That's because there's no one here. Again, the African Union monitors showed us around. It was a ghost town.

The rebels held (UNINTELLIGIBLE) for a couple of weeks in January, so on the 29th the government bombed the town center. The people fled to Chad.

Only a few soldiers and police are here now. The military observers, or mil obs, from the African Union know they can persuade the people it's safe to return, but the Sudanese government won't accept peacekeepers.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: It's not becaues the Sudanese government (UNINTELLIGIBLE) otherwise a peacekeeping force (UNINTELLIGIBLE).

HILSUM: Next week the United Nations will pronounce on whether the government of Sudan has done enough to reign in the forces terrorizing the people of Darfur. Superficially, things are better. There is less violence. But that's because in many places there is no one left to attack. What we've seen suggests that the Janjaweed haven't gone away. The problem is just being camouflaged.

(END VIDEOTAPE)

MAKGABO: That was Lindsey Hilsum reporting.

The United Nations has threatened to impose sanctions on Sudan if the situation in Darfur does not improve by Monday August 30.

Still to come on the program, a music festival and the ritual that could make a difference in modern life.

Stay with us for more.

(COMMERCIAL BREAK)

MAKGABO: Welcome back.

In Southern Morocco, one of the best known subcultural groups is the Gnawa, descendents of slaves from sub-Saharan Africa. The rather obscure group has grown in popularity in recent years because of an annual festival held to honor Gnawan music.

A highlight of the three day event is the (UNINTELLIGIBLE). It's an ancient practice in Gnawa society that uses music to cure diseases.

Sylvia Smith reports.

(BEGIN VIDEOTAPE)

SYLVIA SMITH, CNN CORRESPONDENT (voice-over): It's an overwhelmingly magical ritual that sends some into a trance.

Contrary to what you might think, it is all under the control of the master or (UNINTELLIGIBLE).

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: The (UNINTELLIGIBLE) is controlling the spirits within the person who is possessed and the (UNINTELLIGIBLE) and the spirit are connecting as one. And the person in the trance really has no conscious idea of what is happening.

SMITH: Ecstasy like this is the first step on the road to recovery, some say, from illnesses caused by the spirits.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: And when it reaches a certain (UNINTELLIGIBLE) and the (UNINTELLIGIBLE) realizes the spirit has now come out of the body and (UNINTELLIGIBLE) the (UNINTELLIGIBLE), there is a collapse, almost like an extreme moment of catharsis.

SMITH: The music is hypnotic even when played during the day.

It worked for an English woman suffering from depression, and she setup a festival in its honor.

UNIDENTIFIED FEMALE: At the time when I (UNINTELLIGIBLE) I often (UNINTELLIGIBLE) and it did. And that was (UNINTELLIGIBLE) amazing experience of my life.

SMITH: Hard to believe that only 10 years ago with Moroccans keen to modernize, Gnawa was on its way out.

Gnawa music is now even the subject of academic study.

UNIDENTIFIED FEMALE (through translator): Before the festival, the cult was on the point of disappearing, given ground to Western medical techniques. In fact, people started to become frightened of sorcery, even though it's not really that. But since the festival, it's the intellectuals who are claiming the Gnawa.

SMITH: The Gnawa festival has at least worked miracles (AUDIO GAP) (UNINTELLIGIBLE). Whether or not (UNINTELLIGIBLE) still believe in the healing power of the Gnawa isn't clear, but what is certain is that these narrow streets are crammed with over 300,000 people, so at least the Gnawa are bringing economic benefit to the town of (UNINTELLIGIBLE).

Bringing fame and fortune to the town itself still leaves many poor people preferring a traditional healing session. It costs less to hold a (UNINTELLIGIBLE) than to go to hospital.

Some experts fear that the growing popularity of the cult may ruin its magical quality, turning the religion into a commercial commodity.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: I'm sure, I'm certain that the Gnawa music in its purest forms will remain for ritual and for sacred uses, because it is a sacred music.

SMITH: But for now, the town is enjoying the music boom and is only too willing to let the world into the secrets of its own brand of magic.

For CNN's INSIDE AFRICA, I'm Sylvia Smith in (UNINTELLIGIBLE), Morocco.

(END VIDEOTAPE)

MAKGABO: Turning our attention now to how your money fared this week, Brenda Bernard has those details -- Brenda.

(NEWS BREAK)

MAKGABO: All right, Brenda, thank you very much.

And coming up after the break, why Kenyans are so interested in the U.S. Senate race, and also we'll have our Olympic wrap, so don't go away.

(COMMERCIAL BREAK)

MAKGABO: Hello again.

They may be thousands of miles away from the United States, but the people of one Kenyan village are closely watching a race for the United States Senate in the state of Illinois.

Gladys Njoroge tells us why.

(BEGIN VIDEOTAPE)

GLADYS NJOROGE, CNN CORRESPONDENT (voice-over): Sarah Hussein (ph) lives in a remove village in Western Kenya. Half a world away, her grandson is running for the Senate in the United States.

SARAH HUSSEIN, GRANDMOTHER OF SENATORIAL CANDIDATE (through translator): He is just like his father, he loves people. He used to draw out a crowd when he came here.

NJOROGE: Not unlike his son, Barack, who inspired those who had him speak recently at the Democratic National Convention.

BARACK OBAMA, U.S. SENATORIAL CANDIDATE: My father was a foreign student, born and raised in a small village in Kenya. He grew up herding goats.

NJOROGE: But his son went on to Harvard Law School and it was happiness and success mixed with sadness when Obama's father died in a road accident in Nairobi.

(on camera): This is where Barack Obama traced his Kenyan roots from. His father, now buried in this grave.

(voice-over): Obama is from a (UNINTELLIGIBLE) tribe called (UNINTELLIGIBLE), known for being articulate, ardent politicians.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yes, of course, Obama has the (UNINTELLIGIBLE) blood. That is why he is able to capture a seat in a very powerful country like America.

NJOROGE: The expectations for Obama in Kenya are huge, especially from his family, who say he still keeps in touch with them via e-mail.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: We are praying that he wins the seat so that he will not only be of help to the families (UNINTELLIGIBLE) to Kenya but (UNINTELLIGIBLE) as a whole.

NJOROGE: His grandmother thinks so too, but will her life change if Obama makes it to the Senate?

"I know it will," she says.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: I would say he's gone beyond just being a member of Kenya and America. I think looking at his concepts and beliefs, he's a potential leader for the entire world.

NJOROGE: Someone people in this people of the world can praise as one of their own.

Gladys Njoroge, for CNN, (UNINTELLIGIBLE), Kenya.

(END VIDEOTAPE)

MAKGABO: And finally this week, our Olympic wrap. The games come to an end on Sunday an although African countries don't dominate the medal table, some leave Athens with fond memories of some golden moments. Among them, three Kenyans who made history by sweeping the men's 3,000 meter steeplechase. Ezekiel Kemboi took the gold; Brimin Kipruto took the silver; and Paul Kipsiele Koech got the bronze.

Moroccan El Guerrouj, the 1,500 meter world record holder, is seen by many as the greatest middle distance runner of his generation, but he's never won an Olympic gold, that is until this week. He walked away with the top honor after beating rival Bernard Lagat of Kenya.

But the news was not that good for Cameroonian Francois Mbango. After winning the gold in the women's triple jump, Mbango was stripped of her medal for failing a drug test.

And Zimbabwean Kristy Coventry got a heroic welcome when she returned home during the week. Coventry won three medals in Athens, a gold, silver and a bronze. President Robert Mugabe gave her $50,000 and a diplomatic passport.

And before we go, we take a look at some of the top medal winning countries. Kenya leads the table with six medals, followed by Ethiopia and South Africa, with four a piece, and Egypt and Zimbabwe each have three.

As always, we do look forward to hearing from you. Your thoughts about the program. So send us an e-mail. The address, InsideAfrica@cnn.com, and remember your response could be used on a future broadcast.

That's our look inside the continent this week. Thanks for joining us. I'm Tumi Makgabo.

END

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